Gogarth Main Cliff

QuartziteFaces WtradVS to E7 6c

The centrepiece of Britain's greatest adventure climbing area, a huge sweep of golden quartzite falling into the Irish Sea below Holyhead Mountain. Long, steep pitches on weird, creaky-looking but generally solid rock, with an atmosphere of commitment that defines 'Gogarth E-grades'. Sea, sun and seabirds all add to the experience.

Gogarth Main Cliff, Quartzite — Cliffs to the north of South Stack - geograph.org.uk - 468935 · Trevor Rickard, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Conditions right now

Classics

Route	Grade
Gogarth	E1 5b
Resolution Direct	E3 5c
Positron	E5 6a

Access & approach

Park at South Stack (RSPB); 20 minute walk and a scrambly, partly tidal approach along the base. Seasonal seabird restrictions on some sectors Feb-Jul - check BMC RAD.

Always check the BMC Regional Access Database (RAD)for current restrictions and seasonal bird bans before visiting. County: Anglesey. View on OpenStreetMap ↗

Photos

Freely-licensed photographs taken at or near the crag. Rock changes less than websites do, but check the date — an approach can silt up or a path can be diverted.

Old coastguard lookout on the cliffs above South Stack - geograph.org.uk - 468934 · Trevor Rickard, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons
Looking north from cliffs above South Stack - geograph.org.uk - 5151182 · Chris Morgan, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Where this entry comes from

This is one of our editorial seed entries — written to get the conditions engine working, not sourced from a guidebook or an open database. Treat the details as a starting point and check them yourself.